2017 Pinot Noir "Spring Ephemeral"
This is from a 7 acre site in the East Hills of Hood River. We farm the site with the same minimalist, nature inspired approach that we employ at Hiyu. It was picked by hand and placed whole-cluster in open top bins. The fruit wasn’t touched for the first eight days. Afterwards we kept the cap wet with a single pigeage once a day before pressing directly to barrel after 22 days of maceration. It aged in barrel on the lees for 8 months before being bottled by gravity.
The wine drinks far more richly than its 12.5% alcohol would suggest. In fact, it seems to be constantly changing. At one moment it feels utterly pale, and then looking at it from a different angle there is saturation. It feels sublimely delicate and then later it’s all power. A smell of cedar, incense and dark roses floats over everything. At first the wine swells with richness, but not the richness of the South. This is a mountain wine. Its the sparse richness of wild strawberries and raspberries alongside a dusty trail, or plums in a neglected thicket. It alludes to sugar, but then as the swelling hits a peak, the coolness, structure and acidity comes. The finish of the wine tempers everything. There is mint, hyssop, matsutake and stones cooled by a stream. It is taut and full of tannic power.