2016 Moonhill Farm
This is Chardonnay from a 3 acre site that we farm on a gently rolling plateau adjacent to Hiyu. Its planted in sandy loam on the same south facing slope above the Hood River. Its in its 5th leaf and the cuttings we’re taken from Celilo on the other side of the river. They are likely an heirloom clone from California. The site is dry-farmed and like the Albarino produces a tiny yield of minuscule clusters (a single demi-muid from 3 acres). This was placed in the basket press whole cluster, tread by foot and then pressed gently over 12 hours directly to barrel. It aged in barrel for 14 months on the lees, before being bottled by gravity.
This wine is about density and muscular concentration. It’s not clear where the minerality ends and the fruit begins. It reminds one of the dense reductive, umami laced burgundies of Domaine Leflaive, but also of the wild, Canary Island whites of Envinate. The aromas are pungent and leap from the glass; charred hazelnut, gunflint, lemon custard and yellow plum. The first sensation is one of ripeness and enveloping richness. Then of density and solidness. Finally, that has been woven into everything before this moment comes and carries the wine to a more aerial place. It echoes the notes of smoke, but also introduces white flowers and more delicate nuances that will fill in the frame of the wine with time.